europe Archives | Halicopter Away

5 excellent vegetarian-friendly restaurants in Paris

Hali — Wed, 18 Mar 2020 18:10:08 +0000

Ah Paris – when I think back on my week-long trip to Paris I think of long, leisurely dinners filled with good wine and even better food. I think of creamy cheeses, tender legs of ducks, perfectly roasted scallops (wait, are you sure this is an article for vegetarians…?) and perfectly smooth chocolate mousse. But despite being a meat lover, I am here to tell you that it is 100% possible to find vegetarian restaurants in Paris.

I’ll admit that a lot of stress and anxiety went into finding restaurants that could accommodate my vegetarian boyfriend. We wanted to eat meals where both of us could be happy and explore the full spread that one of the great culinary capitals of the world has to offer. Going into our Paris trip, we had one main question in mind:

Can I find a vegetarian restaurant in Paris?

In my opinion, it is not super easy to be a vegetarian in Paris, but it is also not exceedingly difficult. There are increasingly more options to accommodate a plant-based diet. However, when searching for potential restaurants, a lot of the recommended options were $$$ or $$$$, such as Alain Ducasse’s much famed veggie-friendly restaurant, or strictly vegetarian or vegan-only, such as the cute Le Potager de Charlotte. Neither options appealed to my budget or taste buds. So the hunt was on with two main criteria:

A meal needed to be $$-$$$, which I define as less than $50 a person, preferably including 2-3 courses and a glass of wine
There needed to be both veggie-friendly and meat options to appeal to a diverse set of palettes. They had to be main course options, not just starters or desserts (because who is living off of starters and desserts really?)

The result? 5 delicious meals at 5 excellent vegetarian-friendly restaurants in Paris that both my boyfriend and I enjoyed. Despite being a meat lover, I often found myself wondering if I liked his dish even more than I liked my own! Luckily I could eat as much as I wanted of his while he couldn’t take a bite of mine

Other travel guides:

5 excellent vegetarian-friendly restaurants in Paris

L’Auberge Bressane

A cozy bistro packed with tables full of locals and a smattering of visitors, this restaurant offers delicious French comfort food. The solicitous and friendly staff helped me with my coat and were all smiles despite our complete inability to speak French. The meal was heavenly, warming, and rich – just what I was looking for after a winter day walking around the city.
What you can’t miss: the souffles – I thought I knew what a souffle tasted like until I tasted the souffles at L’Auberge Bressane. It made every other souffle I’d eaten seem dense, stolid, and plain because these were the lightest, airiest dessert I have every placed in my mouth. I’d recommend the sampler trio, where you can try chocolate, sea salt caramel and Grand Marnier.
For the vegetarians: tagliatelle with mushrooms or a cheese souffle. The tagliatelle is cooked in a buttery cheese sauce, and the mushrooms add a beautiful depth and flavor. It has all the hearty satisfaction of mac & cheese, but it is not simply pasta and cheese sauce – the flavors are far more complex and nuanced.
For the meat lovers: coq au vin – this chicken dish, slow cooked with wine and noodles until the meat falls off the bones, draws people from far and wide. The lady next to us had come here explicitly just to try the coq au vin because she’d heard that it is the best in the city.
Cost: 90 – 100 Euros for 2 entrees, 1 glass of wine, and a souffle sampler
Le Temps des Cerises

Le Temps des Cerises appeals to locals and tourists alike with its delicious bistro cooking. It is one of the most memorable meals we had in Paris, where we came in ravenous and left so full we could barely move.
What you can’t miss: the perfect, creamy creme brulee flecked with vanilla bean
For the vegetarians: truffle and mushroom linguini in a light and aromatic cheese sauce
For the meat lovers: Risotto with bacon-wrapped scallops. The sharp saltiness of the bacon pairs perfectly with the mild creaminess of the risotto.
Cost: 90 – 100 Euros for 1 cheese plate, 1 carafe of wine, 2 entrees, and 2 desserts (a great deal!)
Le Petit Canard

You would think that a place named the “The Little Duck” wouldn’t appeal to vegetarians, but among the long list of duck-focused dishes there are some options specially geared towards vegetarians. And did I mention that the duck dishes, from foie gras to confit, are simply divine?
What you can’t miss: the orange duck is their house special. The bright burst of citrus pairs nicely with the rich fattiness of the duck.
For the vegetarians: a vegetarian salad stuffed full of artichokes, cheese, and spinach and feta filo rolls. Beware that the French onion soup looks vegetarian but is alas made of beef stock.
For the meat lovers: A plethora of duck dishes, including their famous orange duck are sure to please any meat lover. Spread their cold foie gras terrine generously over thin pieces of bread or enjoy it grilled and warm.
Cost: 90 – 100 Euros for 1 cheese plate, 1 appetizer, 1 glass of wine, 1 glass of champagne, 2 entrees, and 1 dessert. We took advantage of their 40 Euro set menu, which is really only worth it if you choose the most expensive options on the menu.
Maceo

This Michelin-starred fine dining restaurant offers inventive and intricate dishes in a white table-clothed environment. Was it a tad too stuffy for me? Perhaps. But the food was delicious and the staff highly attentive. The menu rotates but they often have a vegetarian option or two available.
For the vegetarians: Creamy baked gnocchi under a crunchy bread crumb crust for a main entree and a root vegetable topped Parmesan cracker to start
For the meat lovers: Whole roasted suckling pig atop fresh, flavorful lentils. The skin is perfectly crisped with fat that gently melts in your mouth. A celebration for the true carnivore.
Cost: 90 – 100 Euros for 1 appetizer, 2 glasses of wine, and 2 entrees. They also have a set menu for 40 Euros, which is a good deal if you’re interested in the options on the menu.
Creperie le Crepuscule

How can you go to Paris and not get a crepe? This small and cute crepe shop is located right by the Eiffle Tower but we found that it was mostly frequented by locals. They have a wide range of savory crepes that come in huge portions, along with decadent sweet crepes you won’t be able to say no to.
What you can’t miss: one of their delicious dessert crepes – we almost skipped dessert because we were so full, but we’re glad we stayed!
For the vegetarians: a special veggie crepe made with tomatoes, mushrooms, cheese, and eggplant
For the meat lovers: a pesto prosciutto crepe with savory, sharp flavors
Cost: ~30 Euros for 2 savory crepes and 1 sweet crepe

Paris is definitely a food dream for vegetarians and meat-eaters alike. I hope that you eat the most delicious meals and leave dreaming of all that Paris has to offer.

And I know travel is not in anyone’s near future with COVID-19 spreading throughout the world, but I hope that future readers will be traveling again, discovering amazing cities and food. Stay safe everyone!

The post 5 excellent vegetarian-friendly restaurants in Paris appeared first on Halicopter Away.

Why you should visit Paris in the winter

Hali — Sat, 01 Feb 2020 22:22:36 +0000

The first time I visited Paris was in April. The gardens were green and lush, the perfectly manicured trees on the Champs d’Elysee waved gently in the breeze, and the skies were sunny and clear. It was an admittedly beautiful time to be in Paris.

But I’m here to argue that winter, though a bit chilly and dreary, may be an even better time to visit the City of Lights. I was worried that the cold weather, lack of day light hours, and constant rainy drizzle would make for a terrible trip. How wrong I was. My week-long trip at the end of January was simply magical, filled with cozy cafes, rich and comforting foods, and romantic walks along the Seine. So if you’re contemplating that winter Paris trip… I’m here to tell you: do it. Book that ticket and get ready for a memorable and wonderful trip.

Why you should visit Paris in the winter

Everything is cheaper

I’m going to start with practical matters – Paris is simply more affordable in the winter. I didn’t even think of planning a winter Paris trip until I saw how cheap the flights were – $300 for a roundtrip, direct flight from San Francisco to Paris, compared to $800 – $1,000+ tickets in spring and summer. Housing is cheaper as well, with a nice 4 star hotel running $150 per night, compared to $200 – $250 per night in spring and summer.

How to find cheap flights: Subscribe to Scott’s Cheap Flights, an email newsletter that alerts you when there are exceptionally good deals to places all over the world. Also keep an eye out on Black Friday or Travel Tuesday for cheap winter flights, especially on the budget airline carriers French Bee and Norwegian Air.
Talking about everything being cheaper… winter sales are happening

Did you know that by law, French stores can only have sales twice per year? And one of those times is in January, a good excuse to go to Paris for a weekend of shopping. Everything from light bulbs to high-end designers such as Hermes and Louis Vuitton are all marked down by up to 70 or 90%. So if you’re ready for some fashion savings, keep an eye out for when the government announces the official sale weeks and do your research on which pieces you’d like to add to your closet.

Where to shop: I enjoyed the Galeries Lafayette, a large shopping mall, and the Marais neighborhood, which was full of cute boutiques and trendy brands.
The weather is honestly pretty mild

As a California girl, my big worry was the weather. What if it poured the entire time, and I was freezing cold, and I walked around in wet socks all day and was miserable? Turns out I was worried about nothing. At the end of January, temperatures ranged from the low 40’s to the high 50’s. It did rain on and off throughout our trip, but it was more of a drizzle than a downpour and really didn’t dampen our spirits at all. We also had wonderful sunny days where we were able to walk up and down the Champs d’Elysee, visit the Tuileries Garden, and stroll along the Canal St. Martin.

Where to go on a rainy day: I loved ducking in and out of museums when I felt a little chilly or damp, or stopping by a cafe for a hot cup of tea or hot chocolate. The weather would inevitably clear up and I could set out again.
French winter food will warm you up from the inside out

When we’re talking food, I have to say the winter weather is a big plus. When it’s cold outside, all you want is butter and carbs, and oh have the French got you covered on this front. French cooking is rich and delicious with lots of cheese, wine, and roasted meats. There is absolutely nothing more satisfying than tucking into a decadent dinner after walking around all day in the chilly weather. Our first night was spent in a packed French bistro, warming up next to a radiator and eating a delicious meal of roast duck breast, baked goat cheese, and a heaping bowl of chocolate mousse.

What to eat in the winter weather: Coq au vin is slow cooked chicken in a rich wine sauce, and is so perfect for a winter night. I also love cassoulet, a slow cooked casserole with meat and beans in a warm stew.
Cafe culture is bustling and extra cozy

The cold weather does not stop Parisians from enjoying drinks outside in the crisp wintry air. You’ll find bistro and cafe store fronts full of closely packed tables filled with people sharing a drink or smoke, chatting, and watching the world go by. Outdoor heaters make sure everyone is sufficiently cozy, but if you prefer the indoors it’s wonderful to curl up with a hot beverage and watch the rain drip down the windows.

What to drink to stay cozy: Grab a chocolat viennois, a thick, rich hot chocolate made in the Viennese style, not to be confused with a chocolat chaud, a simple hot chocolate. Or have a vin chaud, a hot wine that will give you the bonus of an alcohol blanket.
There are significantly less tourists

I am not saying that tourists are bad – I am a tourist in Paris. You will probably also be a tourist in Paris. However, it is wonderful to just have less people crowding the streets and trying to take pictures in front of every monument or famous pastry shop. I found that there were much fewer tourists and tour groups than when I went in the spring, even up to half as many. Visiting popular places like the Eiffel Tower and the Louvre was far less stressful and I felt like I had the space to explore.
With less tourists, comes shorter lines

On my first trip to Paris, I skipped out on a few attractions because I simply did not want to wait in line. The lines for Saint Chapelle in April wrapped around the block. This time, I simply waltzed right in. Getting into the Louvre took 15 minutes or less. We didn’t even bother waiting in the express line for the Pompideau because it was as short as the regular line. We had more time to properly experience each attraction because we weren’t waiting in line all the time.
You can get into popular restaurants… without a reservation

It can be quite a challenge to get reservations at popular restaurants, let alone walk in and grab a spot. Places were packed and bustling, but somehow there was always space for the two of us, even when we walked in or made reservations the day of. I am such a foodie, so this took a lot of pressure off of planning. Each day we could decide where to eat and didn’t have to worry about being turned away.

Where to it’s worth making a reservation anyways: I’d say my two favorite meals in Paris were at Auberge Bressane, where I had the most heavenly souffle of my entire life, and Le Temps des Cerises, where the bacon-wrapped scallops and creamy risotto was a simply magical combination.
Pastries taste better when it’s cold outside

A simple fact: when it’s cold, you need to eat pastries to stay warm. Your body is burning many calories to keep you at the right temperature – you must fuel your body with pastries, Buttery croissants, flaky pain au chocolat, creamy eclairs all taste better and sit easier on the stomach when the weather is a bit nippy. I can confirm this fact – I had approximately 10 pastries over 5 days.

Where to get pastries that will warm your soul: I love all French pastries, but my favorites were the frangipane pain au chocolat from La Maison D’Isabelle and the praline, rose and pistachio escargot from Boulangerie Bo (which also has the cutest vintage storefront).

My trip to Paris is such a travel highlight, and I can only hope that more people will discover how beautiful this city is in winter. But not too many…. cause I kind of want to keep it a little secret!

What Paris guides would you be interested in? Pastries? Where to eat near popular attractions? Vegetarian friendly restaurants in the city? Let me know in the comments!

The post Why you should visit Paris in the winter appeared first on Halicopter Away.

72 hours of eating in London

Hali — Sun, 29 Sep 2019 23:08:13 +0000

Rumor: British food is terrible and all you eat is fish & chips and English breakfast.

My experience: London is foodie heaven… and I didn’t eat fish & chips at all.

If you love to eat, you’ll love London. How can you not, when there are delicious places to eat on every corner, with cuisines from all over the world? I ate and nibbled and snacked my way through 3 full days in London and still feel that I barely skimmed the surface of what the city had to offer. And honestly as a result of jet lag, we ate at all hours of the day, from 9am to 5am, so I proudly and truly present to you… 72 hours of eating in London.

72 Hours of Eating in London

Dishoom

Meal: dinner
Price: $$
My favorites: Chai tea and Chicken Tikka

Dishoom is a London favorite with locations across the city. Be prepared for long waits as this restaurant is quite popular and known for it’s “British Indian” food. We waited in line for about 45 minutes before being seated, and they kindly passed out glasses of mint tea and Chai as we waited. It was absolutely worth the wait and this feast was a great way to kick off our London trip.
Amaya

Meal: lunch
Price: $$$ – $$$$
My favorites: Grilled sea bream

Amaya was given as an enthusiastic recommendation along with the advice “go during lunch.” This 1 Michelin star restaurant offers set course meals that are ~90 pounds at dinner and only 32 pounds for lunch. We had a long and leisurely lunch of pomegranate noodle salad, grilled paneer, grilled sea bream, tandoori lamb, and chicken biryani – all phenomenal!
Pepe Italian Street Food

Meal: late night snack
Price: $

There’s absolutely nothing special about Pepe other than 1) it serves pizza late into the night and 2) it was right by where we were staying. We visited Pepe multiple times for the London equivalent of a New York $1 slice (note: definitely not NY-style pizza, just cheap and open late). For that, Pepe gets a shout-out for being a key part of my London experience.
Shack-Fuyu

Meal: dinner
Price: $$
My favorites: Korean fried chicken and Matcha ice cream French toast

I came in with medium expectations for Shack-Fuyu, which advertises “western-style Japanese food,” but also has Korean food on the menu. Asian fusion restaurants can be very hit or miss in my experience, especially if they try to bring in too many Asian cuisines. I have to say that Shack-Fuyu’s Korean fried chicken wings blew me away. I still dream about those wings, so perfectly crisp and just drowning in sweet, sour, and spciy sauce. I just wish Shack-Fuyu were open later so I could eat those wings at 3am.
Duck & Waffle

Meal: late night snack
Price: $$ – $$$
My favorites: the original duck & waffle

First, you have to go to Duck & Waffle just for the gorgeous views. Located on the 42nd floor, this restaurant-bar gives you sweeping views across the Thames. And if the views aren’t enough, Duck & Waffle also serves fantastic food. It’s twist on the chicken and waffle is quite refined – two beautifully crisped waffle quarters paired with duck confit and mustard maple syrup. And if the food and the views aren’t enough to tempt you there, Duck & Waffle is open 24/7. You can enjoy the beautiful views and high-end food at 4am after a night out, if you so desire.
Tapas Brindisa

Meal: dinner
Price: $$
My favorites: figs with goat cheese and honey

Tapas Brindisa is a cute little tapas place with multiple locations in London. It was tasty and reminded me a bit of my travels through Barcelona and Madrid!
L’ETO

Meal: dessert
Price: $$$
My favorites: dulce de leche and affogato

I’m pretty L’ETO was designed to optimize Instagram opportunities (there are even “Instagrammable” indicators on the menu to tell you which items photograph well), but luckily their desserts are as tasty as they are beautiful. Signs saying “Sorry, tonight I’m eating cake” merrily decorate walls covered with ivy and hanging flowers. I had the fanciest affogoto of my life there, complete with fresh fruit and crunchy nuts, and the sweets didn’t stop there. The dulce de leche was melt-in-your-mouth delicious and creamy.
Aqua Shard

Meal: drinks
Price: $$$$

Aqua Shard is the fancy rooftop bar on top of London’s iconic Shard skyscraper, and the drink prices are as high as the building. The drinks are beautiful and creative, and as a gin lover, I enjoyed the wide range of London-themed gin drinks. So come for the view and cry over the price of your cocktail – just make sure not to wear “trainers,” as these are against dress code.
Shoryu Ramen

Meal: lunch
Price: $$

Shoryu ramen was the perfect stop on a cloudy and drizzly day before heading to the National Gallery. All the good signs of ramen are there: rich, flavorful broth, perfectly soft-boiled egg, and they let you choose the noodle firmness to your preference.
sketch

Meal: high tea
Price: $$$$

Everything about our experience at sketch was iconic, from high tea right at 4pm to the bathrooms shaped like individual egg pods. Make sure to make a reservation, as this 2 Michelin star restaurant gets quite busy for tea. The tea room is bright pink with pink lady finger chairs and table cloths. We sat here for, no joke, over 3 hours eating our way through caviar toast soldiers, tiny sandwiches, itty bitty desserts, scones with jam and clotted cream, and Victorian sponge. You can try as many teas from their menu of 27 as you wish, and the whole time you are serenaded with live music. When your bladder is ready to burst from all the tea you’ve drank, you can check out their futuristic bathroom, where every toilet is hidden in an egg-shaped pod. Truly an incredible experience as our last meal in London

The post 72 hours of eating in London appeared first on Halicopter Away.

Why I was wrong about Moscow

Hali — Tue, 16 Jul 2019 19:50:09 +0000

My adventures in Moscow began with a wedding invite. Innocent enough. My senior prom date had spontaneously proposed to his Russian girlfriend on a cross-America road trip. Somewhere on the highway in middle of nowhere USA, he looked at the passenger side and he realized he wanted to be with this woman forever. I’ll have to remember that one when it comes time to trap a man for myself.

When he asked me to come to Russia for their wedding, I knew I had to go. My crazy, spontaneous, never ready to settle down friend was about to make a lifelong commitment. Miracles happen every day, and I was ready to witness this one in the flesh. I arranged PTO, booked my travel, and began shopping for a wedding present.

Within a span of a few weeks everything went straight to hell:

My spontaneous friend called to spontaneously inform me that the wedding would be canceled
I decided to go to Moscow anyways because heck that plane ticket was expensive
The most anxiety-inducing visa experience of my life led to me receiving my Russian visa 8 hours before I left the country
My connection to Moscow got canceled. I threatened to sue the airline.

It was 100% a mess, and at this point I was certain I was going to hate Moscow. American media painted a picture of a dismal, communist city with no beauty and terrible food. Stereotypes spoke of pickled fish, rye, and an unhealthy amount of vodka. A co-worker told me he’d gotten the worst food poisoning of his life during a summer in Moscow. On a practical note, I was worried that little English would be spoken and that I had no understanding of the Russian alphabet.

I quickly learned that you should never judge a country by their stereotypes (though there really was a lot of pickled fish and rye). Moscow is breathtakingly beautiful with a deep respect for arts, culture, and history. Out of 20+ countries and numerous cities, it was easily one of the most memorable places I’ve traveled.

Public transportation is practical and beautiful

Nothing makes my heart flutter like good public transportation. The Moscow metro is famous, and with good reason. Once a cesspool of decay, homelessness, and crime, the entire metro system underwent an end to end transformation. Each station was converted into a display of art, with glittering mosaic tiles and paintings. Rides are affordable (a little over $1), and the lines run across the city.
Moscow takes pride in cleanliness

Maybe it’s a small thing to say that a city is clean, but I was impressed that every night without fail the streets would be scrubbed down. San Francisco is the epitome of filth (it’s part of the charm…), so I certainly enjoyed strolling down the clean streets of Moscow.
You don’t need to know Russian to get around

To be absolutely clear, English is not nearly as ubiquitous as in western Europe. However, take 10 minutes to learn the Russian alphabet, pull up Google maps, and you’ll be set to at least navigate around the city. A healthy amount of pointing and gesturing will help you as well, and don’t forget to say thank you (Spasibo).
The city is full of green spaces

When I stepped out of my Airbnb, I found a city bursting into bloom. I visited at the beginning of June and the city was full of shady tree-lined paths and flower bushes. The Moscow Ring Road is a perfect pedestrian path to go for a run or explore the city, and Gorky Park is fantastic. This expansive and sprawling park is a hub for festivals, Saturday outings, and arts markets.
It’s a Renaissance city – you can discover art, history, science, literature

A visit to the Kremlin, Treyakov Gallery, Bolshoi Theater, or Museum of Cosmonautics all have something core in common – each are a true celebration of human culture and beauty. It’s undoubtedly a feast for the mind and eyes.
There’s more to eat than pickled fish and vodka

I had the joy of eating blinis, a type of savory or sweet crepe, and borsch, a flavorful beet and tomato soup. I also found that Moscow has a healthy love of ice cream – everywhere I went I could find people enjoying a distinct rounded scoop of ice cream in a simple waffle cone. The shape is quite distinctive and extremely popular.
A spirit of “live and let live” mixes with a strong sense of hospitality

As I wandered through the streets of Moscow, I appreciated the lack of stares I’ve often received for being a Chinese-American tourist. At the same time, I was warmly welcomed by my friend’s Russian in-laws. Though my connection to them was tenuous, they truly went out of their way to create a memorable experience for me.

Moscow is one of those cities that will live on in my mind, truly unforgettable. When I remember my time there, I’ll think of perfect blue skies, sunlight glittering on a golden church dome, and the feeling of discovery around every corner. It serves as a reminder that no matter how much I travel, I can continue to broaden my mind and embrace new experiences

The post Why I was wrong about Moscow appeared first on Halicopter Away.

How to get your Russian visa 8 hours before your flight

Hali — Sun, 16 Jun 2019 00:42:35 +0000

I’m not a last minute person. I never pull all nighters, never study the day of an exam, never work out or diet the week before the beach. If it’s not done by the last minute, I’d rather not do it at all! For my around the world trip to China, Japan, and Russia, my flights were all booked well in advance, my hotels were ready to go…. and my Russian visa was nowhere to be found.

Granted, I’d procrastinated. It’s just really freaking difficult to get a Russian visa. Some reasons why the process sucks?

The consulate application fee alone is $198… never mind all the processing and mailing fees that get tacked on
In-person applications appointments are only available Mon-Fri until 4pm…
And these applications are only accepted in 5 cities across the United States
Plus to pay the fee you need a money order, so get ready to visit your bank or post office as well

It’s like the classy, refined, beautiful girl in your biochem class – it’s not easy, and it’s not cheap. But it’s also 100% worth it. Moscow was easily one of my favorite places to visit, with it’s history and gorgeous views and balmy early summer weather. Good things in life are worth working hard for

So after receiving my visa on my door step exactly 8 hours before my flight departed, I’m here to tell you EXACTLY how you can get your Russian visa in the cheapest, least painful way possible.

Beautiful and worth the hassle

How to get your Russian tourist visa in the least painless way possible

Understand visa processing timing

This is the most critical step if you want to avoid the panic and stress that I experienced. Average visa processing is 10 business days from the moment your visa reaches the consulate (doesn’t include shipping time), and expedited is 3 business days. It is up to the discretion of the consulate to expedite the visa. Additionally, Russian and US holidays will slow down consulate processing time. I got hit by Russian Labor Day in May, which delayed my visa processing by 6 days. For peace of mind, send in your application at least 30 days before you depart. Seriously, don’t gamble, you will be sad.
Have a valid passport

You must have an original, signed passport with at least 2 blank “Visa” pages side by side that expires at least 6 months after your visa expiration date. If you don’t have this, go renew your passport before continuing.
Do not use an external agency, work directly with Invisa Logistics Services (ILS), an official agency partnered with the Russian consulate

External agencies promise that they can get you your visa faster and with less hassle (for a fee), but there’s not much they can do that ILS cannot already do. ILS is definitely your cheapest option, and they won’t charge you extra for an expedited visa. The process on their website is fairly straightforward, and their call center and email is responsive to requests. They also have in-person centers if you have the time to go in person.
Choose which Invisa office to use

There are 4 Invisa offices – New York, Washington DC, San Francisco, and Houston. I would recommend choosing an office that is close to you, but note that the San Francisco office does not have a consulate in the city, so they will end up shipping your application to Washington DC, and it will cost an additional $45. Even though I live in San Francisco, I one-day shipped my application directly to New York so that Invisa could more easily get my application to a consulate.
Choose whether to apply for a single entry, double entry, or 3-year visa

No matter which visa type you choose, they all cost the same. As long as your passport will not expire, I’d recommend going for the 3-year, multiple entry visa. However, processing time for the 3-year visa is longer, and it cannot be expedited.
Get an official visa support document

To apply for a visa, you need an official support document from a Russian tourist agency. These are relatively cheap and simple to receive. I used ivisa online which I would recommend – it cost about $21 and I received the pdf copy of the letter in my inbox within minutes. If you don’t know what hotel you are staying at, you can just put any hotel from the drop down list. The one important things is to make sure the dates of entry and exit on your invite letter are the same as on your official visa application.
Prepare your official visa application

Fill out the Russian visa application HERE. Be sure to save your application number and password so you can make changes. It’s an extensive form, and here are some helpful tips:
- For country, put “United States”
- You must put down which Invisa center you are applying to
- For employment history, put at least one previous employer down
- For travel history, do your best to remember the countries you have traveled to and the dates, but don’t stress about being perfect
- If you are a US citizen, you do not need proof of insurance
- If you are applying for a 3-year visa: “please indicate the full three year period as the length of stay in the Russian Federation when filling out the visa application(ex. Date of Entry 25/10/2016 until Date of Departure 24/10/2019-minus one day )”
Get a 2×2 passport photo taken

Go to your local Walgreens or CVS and get a set of passport photos taken, which will run you $10. This will need to be fixed on to your application.
Prepare materials to ship to Invisa

Invisa will provide additional services at a cost, which include correcting application mistakes ($30) and texting you when your visa is on it’s way ($3). Additionally, there’s an $85 shipping fee.
Here’s what you’ll need to ship your application to Invisa:
- Customer agreement form – you can find it here
- Your visa application with photo attached
- Your official visa support document
- Your passport
- A money order or cashier’s check for the exact amount needed; you can get this from your bank or local post office
Ship off your application and pray

I’d recommend doing one-day shipping and getting a tracking number (about $25). This way you’ll know exactly when your application makes it to Invisa for processing.

If you reach a moment of panic, you can reach out the Invisa with their contact information found here. I found them to be relatively responsive, though the call center required patience.

I ended up getting an expedited single entry visa that was shipped via overnight FedEx from New York to San Francisco. This overnight shipping cost me an additional $40, but it made sure that I received my visa in time for my flight. I was able to communicate with the Invisa staff to expedite and ship my visa quickly, though they will be very firm if they do not think your visa can be processed in time. The moral of this story? Don’t procrastinate.

Resources:

Invisa website (with fairly clear directions and costs)

Official visa application

Letter of support

The post How to get your Russian visa 8 hours before your flight appeared first on Halicopter Away.

Choosing your route on the Camino de Santiago

Hali — Sun, 17 Feb 2019 22:42:54 +0000

So you’ve decided – you’re ready to walk the famed Camino de Santiago. But though there is only one Way, there are many paths that lead to Santiago, and you’ll need to choose which path is the right path for you.

I walked the Camino de Santiago last June on the Camino Frances, from Burgos to Santiago and then beyond to Finisterre. While the Camino Frances is by far the most popular and most frequently traveled, there are a number of Camino routes that criss-cross throughout Europe. There is really no “one starting place” for the Camino – the most traditional start is when you walk out your front door to begin your pilgrimage. Of course, this is much easier if you live in Europe and don’t have to swim across the Pacific or Atlantic to get to Spain, so I have some advice for how you can choose the best Camino route for you.

You can read an overview of my Camino tips here: A Guide to the Camino de Santiago.

A misty morning on the Camino Frances

No matter what route you choose to take, you will have a Camino that is uniquely your own. So while it’s important to plan, it’s also important not to stress about the details – no matter when you go, what route you walk, or how many days you’re able to devote, you’ll have a Camino that is perfect for you.

Know how many days you want to walk

Before choosing which route to take, it’s best to roughly think about how much time you have to devote to the Camino. Some routes are shorter than others, and everyone has their own walking pace. It’s also best to buffer in a few rest days where you can explore cities you particularly like or give your tired legs a break. Yes, there will be some days you will knock out 35km, no problem, and there will be other days you want to just lie and bed and do nothing other than eat pizza.

I took 25 days to walk from Burgos to Finisterre, which is roughly 600km. I walked anywhere from 20km-35km a day and took 2 rest days.

Decide which season you will walk

Different seasons will have different temperatures, weather conditions, and levels of traffic on the route. I decided to walk in late June/early July because it would avoid the hottest part of the summer and peak crowds while still working with my personal schedule.

Learn about the different routes

There are numerous routes, and each will give you a unique Camino experience. When deciding, I thought about the Camino Frances and Camino Portugues. Other popular routes include the Camino del Norte, Camino Primitivo, Via de la Plata, and Camino Ingles.

Camino Frances

Popular starting points: St. Jean Pied de Port, Pamplona, Burgos, Leon, Sarria

Average walk time from St. Jean Pied de Port: 35 days

The vast majority of pilgrims start their Way at St. Jean Pied de Port, about 800km from Santiago. This is a very popular, high-traffic route, so there will usually always be another pilgrim in sight. In Sarria, you can expect a flood of pilgrims to join since this is the 100km mark to be eligible for a Compostela.

Pros:

easy to meet other pilgrims
a lot of infrastructure in place (e.g., cafes, albergues)
many resources to help plan your trip
many larger cities other than St. Jean where you can start your Camino

Cons

can become crowded during the high season, leading to packed roads and limited availability at albergues

Camino Portugues

Popular starting points: Lisbon, Porto, Tui

Average walk time from Porto: 2 weeks

The Camino Portugues is the second-most popular Camino route. It officially starts in Lisbon, but Porto is a very popular starting point. There are two options from Porto – the Central Way (240km), and the Coastal Way (260km). The Coastal Way is known for gorgeous sea side views and wildflowers if you go during the right season.

Camino del Norte

Popular starting points: Irun

Average walk time: 35 days from Irun

The Camino del Norte is a quieter, less-traversed route and is 825km. It is known for having beautiful natural scenery and space for peaceful, quiet contemplation. Because it is less popular than the Portugues or Frances, many albergues will be closed during certain seasons.

Camino Primitivo

Popular starting points: Oviedo

Average walk time: 2 weeks

The Camino Primitivo is the Original Way, known for being the first established pilgrimage route. It is less-traversed and has a more difficult terrain and weather conditions, and there is also less infrastructure along the path. However, the challenge of taking the road less traveled can make the Camino Primitivo an appealing option.

Camino Ingles

Popular starting points: A Coruña, Ferrol

Average walk time: 1 week

The Camino Ingles is a shorter route that gets its name from the many British and Nordic pilgrims who would start their walk after arriving to Spain by sea. The distance from A Coruña is only 75km, so it is too short for a Compostela.

Resources

https://santiago.forwalk.org/en/

http://santiago-compostela.net/

The post Choosing your route on the Camino de Santiago appeared first on Halicopter Away.

A Guide to the Camino de Santiago

Hali — Mon, 04 Feb 2019 06:27:27 +0000

Walking 600km across Spain was never something I imagined myself doing, but this past summer I found myself walking the Camino de Santiago. The Camino is an ancient pilgrimage trail with paths that criss cross throughout Europe and ends in the city of Santiago where St. James is buried. Pilgrims have been making the trip for centuries, and today people walk the trail for many reasons. Personally, I walked to reflect on a transition time in my life – I had just finished school and would be starting a full time job in a few months. I knew I wanted to take the time before working to travel before the responsibilities of real life chained me to one place. I especially wanted to do something that I would find meaningful for me to do in my 20s.

Planning a Camino can take a good amount of effort, and as a young solo female traveler, I felt that there were extra considerations for safety. These were the steps that I took to plan my trip, and I hope by sharing that others will be inspired to go on their own Camino as well.

Hali’s Planning Guide to Walking the Camino de Santiago

Decide when you will walk and which route you want to take
My detailed guide: Choosing your route on the Camino de Santiago
The route that you take will depend on how much time you have and how much ground you plan to cover each day. The most popular route is the French Way, starting from St. Jean Pied de Port and taking 30-35 days. In order to qualify for a completion certificate, you must walk 100km by foot. This makes Sarria a popular starting point as well.
Purchase your flight/train tickets to your starting point
Walking the Camino de Santiago is a leap of faith – faith in yourself that you an walk the whole way, faith in life that circumstances will allow you to take the time for the trip. The quickest way to commit to the Camino is simply to make that leap and buy your plane tickets to Europe.
Plan a rough sketch of how far you want to walk each day
Some people I met on the Camino enjoyed a spontaneous trip without a big plan, but I found it helpful to sketch out my days so I would have an idea of how long I would have to walk and where I planned to stay each night. When I was actually on the trail, I used the plan as a guide and would change things around as needed.
Determine a training schedule (if necessary) and start trainingI truly believe anyone can walk the Camino no matter their age or physical fitness. Developing a training routine can help give you peace of mind and help build up your ability to walk many kilometers day after day. Personally, I did not train specifically for the Camino, but I did run/lift weights multiple times a week.
Create a packing list and purchase gear
Since you’ll be carrying most of your gear on your back throughout the length of your Camino, it’s important to bring just the essentials. Of course, it’s also possible to pay to ship your bag ahead each day which can help with packing flexibility as well.
Make a plan to keep in touch with your loved onesOften, I find that we use our loved ones as excuses not to take big risks like walking the Camino. People worry that their families will need them during that time, or that their loved ones will worry about their safety. My parents were terrified just by the thought of me walking through Europe alone for month. Making a plan to keep in touch helped ease their minds and gave me the freedom to travel solo.

FAQ

Did you ever feel like you were in danger on the Camino?

I never truly felt like I was in danger on the Camino. I walked during the high season in June/July, and there was always a good amount of people in sight or behind me. When walking in and out of big cities, I would try and walk with other pilgrims.

There was one incident where I felt highly uncomfortable – a local man came up to me, touched my leg with his cane, and commented on how nice my legs looked. I walked away very quickly and was fortunate that he did not follow me.

How far did you walk each day?

I would walk anywhere from 20-35 km each day, at a pace of about 4 km/hr.

Did you carry all of your gear with you?

Yes, I carried everything I used during the Camino in my pack.

Is it possible to ship your bag ahead?

Yes, you can use the Correos Paq Mochila system to send your bag ahead each day for a few Euros. This will lock you into walking to a set destination that day, but can help relieve the pressure of having to carry your bag.

Is it possible to store luggage in Santiago?

I used Correos Paq Peregrino to ship a suitcase to Santiago, since I planned to do some traveling in Europe after my Camino. It cost about 40 Euros total. You can also ship and store your luggage with Ivar.

How heavy was your pack?

My pack was 12-14 pounds fully loaded with water and snacks.

Where did you stay at night?

I stayed at pilgrims hostels (albergues) along the way. Each night costs anywhere from 5-15 Euros.

Did you book in advance?

No, I enjoyed the flexibility of being able to choose how much to walk each day without a set end destination. I never had trouble finding a place to stay.

Is there food along the trail?

Yes, there are a number of cafes along the way. Many of the larger towns will also have grocery stores.

Is it possible to get lost on the trail?

The trail is marked by yellow arrows, and it is really quite hard to get lost. I would recommend downloading an offline map if you’re particularly directionally challenged, but the arrows provide clear and obvious guidance.

What’s the restroom situation like?

The cafes along the trails will also have restrooms. It’s polite to buy something if you’re planning to use the restroom. On longer stretches where there were no cafes, I would often pee on the side of the trail. A girl’s gotta do what she’s gotta do!

Were there problems with bed bugs?

I personally never encountered any bed bugs, but there were clear signs of bed bugs at a number of albergues that I stayed at, and other pilgrims told me that they had run into bed bugs before. I would suggest bringing a treated liner and treating your bag to prevent bed bugs. At the end of my trip, I dried all my things at high heat to torch any nasty critters that might be lurking about.

Did the Camino change your life?

I don’t really believe in life-altering experiences – I think our everyday choices are far more important to how the course of our life plays. But, walking the Camino did show me a side of myself I had never met before and gave me an experience I’ll never be able to replicate. At the very least, my view of the world shifted a few degrees.

The Camino was an experience that I will deeply treasure. If you’re interested in walking, I’ll be releasing follow-up posts to go into detail on my planning, packing, and traveling tips. Buon Camino!

The post A Guide to the Camino de Santiago appeared first on Halicopter Away.

europe Archives | Halicopter Away

5 excellent vegetarian-friendly restaurants in Paris

Can I find a vegetarian restaurant in Paris?

5 excellent vegetarian-friendly restaurants in Paris

Why you should visit Paris in the winter

Why you should visit Paris in the winter

Everything is cheaper

Talking about everything being cheaper… winter sales are happening

The weather is honestly pretty mild

French winter food will warm you up from the inside out

Cafe culture is bustling and extra cozy

There are significantly less tourists

With less tourists, comes shorter lines

You can get into popular restaurants… without a reservation

Pastries taste better when it’s cold outside

72 hours of eating in London

72 Hours of Eating in London

Why I was wrong about Moscow

Public transportation is practical and beautiful

Moscow takes pride in cleanliness

You don’t need to know Russian to get around

The city is full of green spaces

It’s a Renaissance city – you can discover art, history, science, literature

There’s more to eat than pickled fish and vodka

A spirit of “live and let live” mixes with a strong sense of hospitality

How to get your Russian visa 8 hours before your flight

How to get your Russian tourist visa in the least painless way possible

Understand visa processing timing

Have a valid passport

Do not use an external agency, work directly with Invisa Logistics Services (ILS), an official agency partnered with the Russian consulate

Choose which Invisa office to use

Choose whether to apply for a single entry, double entry, or 3-year visa

Get an official visa support document

Prepare your official visa application

Get a 2×2 passport photo taken

Prepare materials to ship to Invisa

Ship off your application and pray

Resources:

Choosing your route on the Camino de Santiago

Know how many days you want to walk

Decide which season you will walk

Learn about the different routes

Camino Frances

Camino Portugues

Camino del Norte

Camino Primitivo

Camino Ingles

Resources

A Guide to the Camino de Santiago

Hali’s Planning Guide to Walking the Camino de Santiago

FAQ