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Guide to Backpacking Denali National Park

Hali — Thu, 06 Jul 2023 23:19:03 +0000

I recently went on a 2 night backpacking trip in Denali National Park in units 26 & 27. This guide is based on my personal experience and what I wish I knew going into the trip.

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Last weekend, I spent 2 nights backpacking Denali National Park. It was the most intense backpacking trip I’ve been on, and I struggled to find first hand accounts of people’s experience and trip planning. I’m by no means a Denali expert, but wanted to share my experience in case it’s helpful for someone else’s planning.

What our trip to Denali looked like

Our trip took place the first week of July 2023, and we were a group of 2, where both of us had backpacking experience. We did not make any campground reservations as we were planning to get backcountry permits for different units in the park.

Bright & early on Saturday, we drove to Denali from Anchorage. This took about 4-5 hours including stops for food. We got to the ranger station around 11am, picked out our backpacking units, got a bear canister, and watched the mandatory prep videos and safety talk. We had limited choice of units – because it was July 4 weekend, a number of units were already full, and units deeper in the park were not accessible by bus due to a landslide. We ended up choosing units 26 & 27, because they would have few river crossings and fewer bears. This whole process took about 2 hours.

We had called the park earlier that week to book tickets on the camper bus, so did not need to buy tickets at the park. We caught the 1:30pm camper bus into the park and got dropped off at the Savage River Camp bus stop.

Our route in Denali

Because there are no trails, you fully determine your route inside the park. We started by hiking the Savage River Loop into unit 26, hiking beyond the end of trail to follow the Savage River. The plan was to hike along the river until we reached a flatter area where we could start hiking up Primrose Ridge into unit 27. We would spend one night in unit 26, then spend two nights in unit 27 before hiking onto the road and catching the camper bus back to the bus depot.

Alas, things did not go as planned. Walking along Savage River was extremely difficult – both sides of the river are covered in brush and small trees so there was lots of bushwhacking involved. We ended up making camp earlier than expected due to the slow progress.

On the second day, we decided to ascend Primrose Ridge from our campground rather than hiking to an area with flatter terrain. This was a bad idea. I think we might have picked the most difficult route up to the ridge – it was extremely steep and covered in brush and small trees that obstructed our path. At times we were using the tree branches to pull ourselves up, and it was very slow and painful progress. In about 6 hours of hiking, we went 2 miles – and it was the most painful 2 miles of my life! By the time we were near the peak, I was exhausted and we were running out of water. It was also extremely windy near the peak, and I was honestly petrified of slipping and falling, to point where I could not move. A great time for my fear of heights to kick in!

We made the difficult decision to turn back and camp near the river. At that point, neither of us felt confident that we could reach the peak and find water. Our way back was much easier – at this point, we understood how to choose a path that took us through easier terrain. We also realized that wading along the river would actually be significantly easier than bushwhacking along the bank, wet socks and all.

On our 3rd day, we decided to cut our trip short and head out of the park. At this point, it wouldn’t be possible for us to go through unit 27 and make it out of the park within the single night remaining on our backcountry permit. We spent another 5 hours trekking out of the park and back to the road.

Reflecting back on our Denali trip, between the terrain and steepness, we may have gone the absolutely dumbest route that we could have.

We decided to ride the camper bus to the end of the line and back so we could see more of the park, which I really enjoyed!

What I wished we did differently

We had a pretty difficult trip, and there are a number of things I wished we did differently.

Worry less about bears and river crossings when choosing our units – There were so many warnings about grizzlies and dangerous river crossings that we indexed heavily on selecting units where we’d be less likely to encounter these challenges. As a result, we ended up with a mountainous area with lots of difficult bushwhacking. There were definitely moments where I would have taken a grizzly sighting in exchange for some flat terrain and low shrubbery.
Actually understand how to read a topographical map – From a navigation perspective, we were comfortable reading a topographic map. However what we were quite bad at was understanding how steep terrain would actually be based on the map. As a result, we ended up navigating into terrain that was too steep for our comfort.
Understand how much slower you go without a trail – I will never take a trail for granted again. Between the bushwhacking and shoving branches out of your face and wading rivers, you go much, much slower in trail-less terrain. It is mentally more exhausting as well, because you’re constantly thinking about where to go next, and how to get there in the least painful way. Sometimes you have limited visibility (i.e., 10 feet in front of you) and have to make some difficult judgement calls.
Be more comfortable walking in the river – River crossings can be extremely dangerous, so I was nervous about walking in the Savage River. This led to a lot of bushwhacking and zigzagging along the bank. Once we decided to walk in the river, our progress was much faster and easier. Of course we still used an abundance of caution – even right along the bank, the water could reach up to our knees and at times the current is quite powerful.

What I would do again

Despite the difficulties, there were some things we did that I would definitely do again.

Bring a satellite communicator – Satellite communicators are expensive, but in this case it was worth it. We were able to use our Zoleo to send check in messages every night to our families. And when I was feeling stuck and scared on the peak, it really helped my peace of mind knowing that I had the ability to send an SOS if needed.
Go with at least one other person – I’ve done solo hiking and traveling before, but I was extremely grateful to have a partner on this trip.
Have previous backcountry backpacking experience – Our prior backpacking experience helped us understand how to manage our water supply, what were good locations for camping, and general best practices around safety and risk.
Bring trekking poles – This was my first hike with trekking poles and they were working overtime, from getting me up and down steep terrain to testing out water depth in the river. I don’t think I could have done the trip without trekking poles.

Okay so that was our experience – keep reading for a general guide for preparing for the trip!

How much experience do you need to backpack Denali National Park?

Denali is definitely a step up from your average backpacking trip – there are very few trails in the park, and it’s extremely remote. We had both been backcountry backpacking a few times before this trip, and personally I’m glad that we had that experience going into Denali. Here’s what you should be comfortable with heading into the trip:

Fit enough to navigate through steep and uneven terrain
Comfortable reading topographic maps and matching up visual landmarks to the map
Comfortable navigating with a compass
Comfortable dealing with wildlife encounters, such as grizzly bears and moose
Comfortable crossing rivers
Understand camping and hiking basics, such as managing water supply and where to set up camp

How to get a Denali backpacking permit

Denali backpacking permits are first come first serve and can only be reserved in person at the ranger station. Units can only be reserved up to 24 hours before the start of your backpacking trip. The ranger station opens at 9am, so try and get there early to get the unit of your choice!

Select your Denali backpacking units

Denali is divided into 87 backcountry units. For each night of your backpacking trip, you’ll need to decide which unit to camp in and get a permit for that night. Day hiking in a unit does not require a permit. About 4 – 12 permits are allowed each night per unit, so if you’re going with a bigger group you’ll need to find a unit that has enough permits!

Each unit is unique with different features. Before you get to Denali, it’s important to research the units and come up with a shortlist of units that you’d be excited to camp in. Here are some factors to consider when choosing your units:

How comfortable are you with river crossings?
Are you excited about wildlife encounters (e.g., bears, moose, sheep) or would you rather avoid them?
Do you prefer flat or mountainous terrain?
What kind of landscapes do you hope to see on your trip?
Is the unit accessible by bus, or do you need to hike into it?

I recommend going through Denali’s unit guide and carefully reading through each unit, along with any special features or warnings that the park might have called out.

These units were on our shortlist:

units 4 – 8 – they seemed pretty flat with a variety of landscapes
units 25 – 27 – there would not be as many river crossings, and fewer berars

At the time we were planning our trip, units deeper into the park such as 12, 13, and 14 were not accessible by bus due to a landslide.

Buy your Denali camper bus tickets

If you’re going more than 15 miles into the park, you’ll need to book a ride on the camper bus. We were able to call in ahead of time and reserve tickets on the 1:30pm bus. It turns out we really didn’t need them because we ended up getting dropped off at the Savage River stop, which is serviced by the free courtesy shuttle. Our bus tickets were $35 per person.

Once you have a camper bus ticket, you can hop on and off the bus at any point within the park, as long as you don’t return to the bus depot. We ended up catching the bus and riding it as far into the park as we could go just to see different landscapes.

Make sure you take a picture of the bus schedule, so that you know approximately when you need to be at the road for pickup. There is a chance that the bus is full, in which case you’ll have to wait for the next one.

How to prepare for your backpacking trip to Denali

It’s time to prepare your gear and make sure you have everything you need for a fun and safe trip in Denali!

Understand the Denali terrain & weather

Backcountry backpacking in Denali will likely involve going off trail. This means you’ll need to be prepared for bushwhacking, uneven terrain, and river crossings.

Weather in Denali can also vary, with a wide range of temperature and weather conditions.

You’ll want to pack the right gear to support the areas of Denali that you’ll be spending time in.

For much of our trip, visibility looked like this. Be prepared for bushwhacking and navigating through dense growth!

Prepare your gear

This was our packing list. I’ve marked items that I would not bring again or did not use, and included links for items where I could find them online.

Clothes

1 long sleeved shirt (Icebreaker Sphere II women’s shirt) – I wish I got one that specifically had bug protection as well
1 long hiking pant (REI convertible hiking pant) – I love these pants, but they did not protect from mosquito bites
1 short sleeved shirt – I brought this in case I got soaked and needed a change of clothes, but did not end up using. I probably could have left it at home.
1 thermal shirt (Uniqlo heat tech) – I didn’t use this because it was very warm
1 thermal legging (Uniqlo heat tech) – I didn’t use this because it was very warm
2 hiking underwear (Ex officio Women’s brief) – I love these underwear. They dry super quickly and are very breathable
3 pairs wool socks (Smartwool crew socks) – These are my go-to hiking sock! I have pairs that are 10 years old. Your socks probably will get wet on the trip, so you want something that will dry quickly and keep you warm even when wet.
Rain jacket (North Face Venture Jacket) – I didn’t use this because it did not rain
Rain pants (REI zip up rain pants) – I didn’t use this because it did not rain
Down vest (Uniqlo down vest) – I didn’t use this because it was very warm
Hat (REI Sahara Guide Hat)

Shoes

Waterproof hiking boots with ankle support (Oboz hiking boot) – My boyfriend hiked in trail runners, which are more breathable. He was worried about the lack of ankle support but overall said it was fine. A tradeoff of waterproof boots is that they dry more slowly if they get thoroughly soaked. The last day I was hiking in wet shoes and socks the whole time!
Lightweight waterproof hiking sandals (Tevas) – I wouldn’t recommend open toed water shoes for river crossings, since you want to protect your toes and maintain a good grip. However, these were great for walking around camp.

Camping & Cooking

2 person tent (MSR Hubba Hubba 2 person tent) – We love this tent! It’s easy to set up and has nice, convenient details such as side pockets
Sleeping bag (Marmot Women’s Angel Fire)
Sleeping pad (Nemo Tensor Ultralight Insulated Pad)
Inflatable pillow (Trekology pillow) – I don’t love this pillow because it’s hard to pack down. But it gets the job done.
Pot (MSR lightweight pot)
Sporks
Bowls
Fuel cannister
Stove (MSR Pocket Rocket)
Swiss army knife

First Aid

Advil
Allegra (my allergies were TERRIBLE the entire time, even with Allegra)
antibiotics
allergy eye drops
mole skin
duct tape
sunblock
band aids
alcohol wipes
hand sanitizer
hydrocortisone cream
Neosporin
chapstick
toothbrush & toothpaste

Water

1 Liter water bottle (Nalgene)
Water filtration system
Iodine tablets (backup)

Bear Safety

Bear canister – our bear canister was too small, so we rented one for free from the ranger station
Bear bells – these were useless and I would not bring next time
Bear spray & holster – you can rent these from the ranger station

Mosquito prevention

People are not lying when they say the mosquitos are insane!

100% deet bug spray
head nets (Sea to Summit head nets) – I was very happy to have the head nets because the mosquitos were absolutely swarming

Miscellaneous

Trekking poles (REI trailmade trekking poles) – These are a must!!!
Satellite communicator (Zoleo)
Micro fiber towel
Carabiner
Diaper pins – great for pinning your wet socks to the back of your pack
Whistle
4 small ziptop bags
3 large trash bags – these were helpful for lining our bags, in case we fell into the water
small stuff sack
poop shovel
toilet paper
marine cord – we tied these to our bag and wrapped them around our wrists, in case we fell into the water and needed to wiggle out of our packs
external battery pack and chargers

Prepare your food

Denali is deep in bear country and all of your food and items with scent need to fit in a bear canister. For lunch and dinner, we packed dehydrated meals. These are pricier, but honestly delicious. Some of our favorites are the pad thai from Backpacker’s Pantry and shakshuka from Alpine Aire. For breakfast, we packed a mix of nuts, dried fruit, granola, and powdered milk that we mixed with water for a tasty cereal.

Do you need a bear canister?

Yes. Denali is deep in bear country and all food and scented items must go in a bear canister at night. You can rent these for free from the ranger station.

What’s the best way to deal with mosquitos in Denali?

The mosquitos are insane and I got bitten up pretty badly. I wore a long-sleeve shirt, but not a mosquito-proof shirt. Lesson learned.

To deal with the mosquitos, I recommend long-sleeved shirt and pants that are specifically bug-proof. I also recommend head nets and covering exposed skin with 100% deet spray. If you do get bitten, bring hydrocortisone to deal with the itching and swelling.

Do you need a satellite communicator?

Whether or not you invest in a satellite communicator is up to your own level of comfort and risk. We purchased a Zoleo for the trip, and we’re very happy that we did. It gave both us and our families peace of mind.

Note that on top of the cost for the device, you need to pay a recurring monthly subscription in order to send messages. For the Zoleo, this was $20 per month with a minimum 3 month subscription. There was also a $20 activation fee for a total of $80 added on to the initial $200 price for the device. Peace of mind does not come cheap!

How to get to Denali

We rented a car and drove from Anchorage to Denali along the highway. You could also take the Alaska Railroad, which I’ve heard is absolutely breathtaking!

Fun stops on the way to Denali

Talkeetna – a cute little town about 2 hours away from Denali. We enjoyed stopping for lunch.
Hatcher’s pass – this is only open during certain seasons. It was recommended to us, but we ended up not going through the pass.

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Backpacking 10 Lakes Trail in Yosemite National Park

Hali — Sun, 22 Sep 2019 20:40:18 +0000

Even though Yosemite is only a 4 hour drive away, I’ve flown to China more times than I’ve visited the iconic national park. Actually I’d flown to China infinity more times than I’d gone to Yosemite, because, up until 2 weeks ago, I’d gone to Yosemite all of 0 times. I’d heard about how beautiful it is, how it’s the crowning gem of US national parks, but I could never summon the energy to research permits and then cart myself over.

I can tell you that Yosemite is just as breathtaking and worth it as everyone says it is. 10 Lakes Trail was a great introduction to the park. It’s not one of the most popular hikes, but it gives you gorgeous views, diverse terrains, and a beautiful spot for an overnight camp.

Other hikes from around the world:

10 Lakes Trail, Yosemite National Park

Distance: 12.4 miles out and back

Elevation gain: ~3000 ft

Do you need a permit? Yes

Difficulty

The hike starts with a moderate climb and is pretty much a steady uphill hike until the 4 mile mark, where it becomes a crazy uphill hike that goes straight up. It’s steep for about a mile before almost immediately starting to descend. The last mile before hitting the first of the 10 lakes is a steep downhill, which is easier on your heart but harder on your knees.

The return is more moderate – it begins with the steep climb up and down, and then becomes a steady descent back to the trailhead.

Terrain

The trail starts with loamy woods before transitioning quickly to bright, open white rock with great views of the surrounding mountains. The trail becomes forested once more, with an occasional break into grassy fields. The top of the final peak is grassy and we were able to see deer and the largest ground squirrels I have ever encountered in my life. The final descent is open and rocky with breathtaking views of the lake.

Camping

There is plenty of room for camping and fire rings already in existence. You need to camp 100 ft from the lake, and any fires must be set in a fire ring. Rather than stay by the main lake, we went out a bit further on the trail to a nearby lake. We had the luxury of being completely alone and were able to take a dip in the beautifully clear, icy cold lake.

What we brought

You can reference my post How to prepare for your first backpacking trip for my packing list. Do make sure to bring:

A bear canister
enough water for the hike in and a way to purify / filter / boil water as the lakes are the only source of water on the trail

We also went in early September, so the weather was beginning to cool down at night. I needed long-sleeved Heat tech shirt and leggings and a down vest from Uniqlo to stay warm at night.

What we ate

Despite being out in the wilderness, I still thought a lot about food! There’s nothing like a good meal after a day of hiking. We snacked largely on Rx Bars and Kind Bars and had some tasty freeze-dried meals – the Backpacker’s Pantry Pad Thai from REI was particularly delicious and was just the right amount for 2 people. We also brought ingredients for s’mores which we roasted over our fire, and it was the perfect sugary treat to end the day.

Some of my favorite moments from 10 Lakes Trail, Yosemite

A beautiful, grassy field surrounded by mountains and forest about halfway through the hike
The view partway down the final descent where you can see 4 of the 10 lakes nestled among the mountains
A breathtakingly cold and invigorating swim at our final campsite
The mountains reflected so perfectly in the lake early in the morning

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6 trendy desserts to eat in NYC

Hali — Fri, 09 Aug 2019 23:35:00 +0000

It’s true when they say New York City really has everything the heart could want, especially when it comes to food. Dollar pizza at 3am? It’s there! 3 star Michelin restaurants? You can find it for sure. My 2 month adventure in New York has come to an end, but before I left I managed to eat some truly superior food. These 6 desserts were not only delicious and worth a visit if you’re ever in the city; they’ve also inspired me to try baking my own versions so I can have a piece of New York with me on the other side of the continent!

6 trendy desserts to eat in NYC

New York cheesecake

So this is nothing revolutionary. When in New York, you must eat New York cheesecake, the delicious dessert made with cream cheese, sour cream, and whipped egg whites to create a sublime texture. The newsworthy opinion I have on the New York Cheesecak: I didn’t think Elaine’s famous cheesecake was the best cheesecake. This award goes to Daily Provisions. Their cheesecake with strawberry-rhubarb compote was some of the BEST cheesecake I’ve ever had. It was pure heaven, with a rich yet light texture and a beautiful tart sauce with every bite.
Cookies from Levain Bakery

Yes, these cookies are a legend. They are thick and solid with a hefty amount of filling. As my boyfriend put it – the Platonic ideal form of a cookie would indeed be a Levain Bakery chocolate walnut cookie. There is no cookie in the world that better embodies the soul and spirit of a chocolate chip cookie. These cookies also transport well, so they are a great gift to take home to your friends.
Cookie shots from Dominique Ansel

Dominique Ansel is famous for his cronut, but I was too lazy to wake up early before work and wait in line for a cronut. I settled for a cookie shot instead. Unlike tequila shots, these shots are edible, delicious, and good for your soul. The inside is lined with chocolate and then filled with milk. Wholesome!
Birthday cake from Milk Bar

Milk Bar is famous for its rainbow-flecked, bright and peppy birthday cakes. These cakes have 3 rich layers interspersed with thick, cream cheese icing. The top has cookie dough crumbles, and it tastes as good as it looks. It is quite the sweet treat and will keep you full for hours.
Bubble tea soft serve from Bar Pa Tea

There’s the familiar bubble tea which we all know and love, and then there’s bubble tea soft serve. Rich, creamy soft serve with a subtle tea flavor is topped with perfectly chewy tapioca. I got the green tea and rose swirl and it honestly exceeded expectations.
Olive oil cake from L’Artusi

I’m ending the list with a classier dessert from L’Artusi, an elegant Italian restaurant in West Village. The pasta is phenomenal, but the olive oil cake was the perfect way to end dinner. It’s dense (in a good way), moist, and topped with a generous clump of cream. This dessert showed me how delicious olive oil cakes can be – I’ll have to make my own!

I had such a fantastic time discovering the different foods New York had to offer, and I only really scratched the surface. One of my favorite parts about traveling is using my experiences to inspire my cooking at home – can’t wait to come up with some NYC-inspired desserts!

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A Guide to 72 Hours of Food in Portland, OR

Hali — Sun, 05 May 2019 01:01:32 +0000

I’ve eaten my way through 60 hours in Dallas, followed by 48 hours in Austin, and today I’m excited to bring you 72 hours of food in Portland. I promise you, those extra hours can make a real difference in terms of all the delicious foods to try, and Portland is a dream land for coffee-lovers and foodies of all sorts. There’s an artisan version of nearly everything, from doughnuts to ice cream, and experiences range from the homey food cart to the fancy $$$$ set menu restaurant. No matter what type and cuisine of food you love, Portland almost certainly will impress.

Portland Food Spots

Fried Egg I’m in Love

Meal: breakfast

Highlights: Yolko Ono – their classic fried egg, sausage, and sourdough sandwich

I kicked off my Portland weekend with a food truck in the heart of downtown. This adorable, bright yellow truck makes the perfect assortment of breakfast sandwiches to pep up your day. The punny menu names are matched only by their perfectly soft fried eggs. So yolky, so delicious…

Nong’s Khao Man Gai

Meal: dinner

Highlights: The #1 – simple chicken, rice, soup, and fragrant sauce

Nong’s is always packed with locals and tourists alike who are there to enjoy the simple and flavorful taste of chicken and rice, so be prepared to wait for a table. Originally a food truck, Nong now has multiple locations throughout the city.

Rimsky Korsakoffee House

Meal: coffee and dessert

Highlights: Mocha with citrus – tastes like a love affair between hot chocolate, espresso, and candied oranges

Rimsky Korsakoffee House is a quirky stop with eclectic decor and a cozy atmosphere. Unlike your average coffee shop, Rimsky opens in the evening and stays open until 1am. It’s the perfect place to catch up with a group of friends or people watch with live music, homemade desserts, and inventive coffee drinks.

Blue Star Donuts

Meal: donuts can be eaten 24/7

Highlights: blueberry bourbon donut

Skip Voodoo doughnuts and just come to Blue Star for the tastiest (and bougiest) donuts. These are not your average donut – they are definitely ~artisanal~ and come in flavors ranging from chocolate orange to creme brulee. At $3.50 – $4.00 they’re definitely pricey, but worth every bite. I over-indulged on two of these treats and needed some coffee to pick me up. Good thing you’re in Portland, where good coffee lies on every street corner!

Umami Cafe

Meal: Tea time is always at 4pm

Highlights: Matcha tea set

While not the most amazing tea and cake set that I’ve had, there’s something so peaceful about slowly sipping matcha and nibbling on red bean cake while sitting in Portland’s beautiful Japanese Tea Gardens. Breathe deeply and enjoy the grassy freshness of the matcha and delicate sweetness of the cake.

Bamboo Sushi

Meal: Dinner

Highlights: Omakase

Follow up on the Japanese Tea Gardens with a trip to Bamboo Sushi, which has made waves with their sustainably sourced sushi. I recommend going for the Omakase, where the sushi chef will treat you to custom menu. This choice usually runs around $75, but you can set a price limit if you’re not ready to go all out. Fresh, sustainable fish paired with inventive flavors that pop and burst in your mouth – it’s a delicious way to end the day!

Beast

Meal: Brunch

Highlights: Communal dining environment

Beast is definitely a $$$$ restaurant, and brunch will run you $40 for 3 courses. Each course is delicately done, starting with a sweet and tangy rhubarb clafoutis and ending with a rich and savory pork shoulder eggs Benedict. Diners sit at communal tables, so as a solo traveler, I enjoyed the chance to meet other diners.

Marukin Ramen

Meal: Dinner

Highlights: Tonkotsu Shoyu Red

Located at Portland’s Pine Street Market, this Japanese ramen chain deserves its fame. The soft egg is the perfect consistency, and the pork is tender and melts in your mouth. They also have a fantastic vegan option made from soy milk.

Whiz Bang Bar

Meal: Dessert

Highlights: Matcha and citrus soft serve

After finishing up a hearty meal at Marukin, hop over to Whiz Bang Bar, also located in Pine Street Market. This soft serve bar is from the geniuses behind Portland’s famous Salt & Straw ice cream shop. There are a variety of innovative flavors, from matcha with a citrus twist to glazed donut. Throw in add ons such as brownies and cookie dough, and add a flavorful dip to create a soft serve masterpiece.

There is too much delicious food in Portland to eat in just 72 hours, but you can get through quite a bit.

Honorable mentions: Dar Salam, Hat Yai, Peacock Thai, Fifty Licks, Pok Pok

Places on my list that I didn’t make it to: Salt & Straw, Maurice, Broder Cafe

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A Guide to a Day in San Francisco’s Sunset District

Hali — Mon, 22 Apr 2019 06:13:11 +0000

“If you live in Sunset, say goodbye to your social life” – random SF new grad

Sunset is the district that lies beyond trendy Haight-Ashbury, just far enough west that if you throw a house party in Sunset, your friends who live in Mission and Soma probably will RSVP yes then flake day of. But Sunset is a gem of a neighborhood, home to Golden Gate Park, some of the best Chinese food in the city, and beautiful ocean views. And a big bonus – it’s streets are much cleaner and tidier than say, those around SF Civic Center.

So if you’re an SF tourist or a long-time native, it’s worth a trip to see what Sunset has to offer. Sunset is a little colder and chillier than the rest of SF (micro-climates!), so be sure to pack layers as you’ll likely experience all four seasons in just one day

How to get there:

The N line Muni runs straight through Sunset and is my preferred form of public transportation. Make sure you have either exactly $2.25 in cash or a charged Clipper Card to ride. If you don’t want to figure out SF’s distinctly sub-par public transportation, grab an Uber and you’re good to go.

Morning

Grab some brunch at Zazie’s, one of SF’s most popular brunch spots and featured in my SF brunch list. The wait can be long (did you even go to SF if you didn’t wait an hour for brunch), but the food is delicious, from their Miracle Pancakes to Eggs Benedict.

Tip – the seats outside the restaurant are first come, first served, so if you grab one of those you won’t need to wait in line.

Head to the Hidden Garden and Moraga Tiled Steps. These steps are tiled with glittering, colorful mosaics and were a project to revitalize the neighborhood. You are certain to get both an Insta-worthy pic and a workout climbing up these steps.Tip – the trek isn’t done when you’re at the top of the steps. Climb up Grandview Park right behind the steps and treat yourself to a windy and wonderful view of San Francisco. The city certainly looks most beautiful from far away!

Afternoon

Wander down to Golden Gate Park, a 5 mile long green space that is packed with a plethora of activities. You can visit the Botanical Gardens, Japanese Tea House, California Academy of Sciences, Conservatory of Flowers, or de Young Museum. Or, just take a leisurely walk, lie in the grass, and watch the quirky denizens of SF parade through the park. As an SF native, I still always find something new and amazing every time I visit the park.

Take a Dim Sum break on Irving Street, home to some of the best Chinese food in SF. There’s a large Chinese population on Irving Street and is less touristy by far than Chinatown. One of my favorite grab and go Dim Sum shops is T.C. Pastry, which has all the classics from giant BBQ pork buns to shrimp dumplings to egg tarts.

Evening

Walk (or Muni) further west to Ocean Beach to watch the sun set. I love this western-most area of the city because of it’s quintessential SF feel – streets lined with Victorian-style houses packed side-by-side, the sky criss-crossed with cable car lines. When you look down the street, you see the ocean, and the sun just starting to set.

Tip – there are fire pits at Ocean Beach, so if you come early enough to grab one you can enjoy a S’mores roast right by the sea

Grab dinner at Toyose, a garage converted into a quirky Korean comfort food shop that is just a few blocks away from the beach. There’s nothing more satisfying than hot and spicy soup after a chilly walk on the beach. Try their delicious soju mixes if you want a drink with your food.

Tip – there is almost always a wait, and the restaurant staff don’t like to be bothered about wait times. Just walk in and write your name on the board, be patient, and be present when your name is called.

Whenever I write about SF, I remember there are beautiful places to travel in my very own city – even if I have a love / hate relationship with this crazy place. What are some of your favorite places in the cities you live in?

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How to Not Pay Cover in Vegas

Hali — Mon, 01 Apr 2019 16:06:06 +0000

Since turning 21, I’ve been fortunate (or maybe, unlucky) enough to travel to Vegas every year. I’ll always spend my Friday night, Saturday day, and Saturday night happily clubbing away at Vegas’ most popular clubs. Of course, going out can be expensive, and if I don’t have to pay, I don’t want to! The first time I went, I bought tickets to all the DJs and clubs, but since then I’ve learned that there are ways to get in for free, even if you have a group of more guys than girls.

How to get into Vegas Clubs for free

(this sounds like a sketchy marketing scam, but it’s not, promise)

How many guys are girls do you have in your group?

Unfortunately, Vegas clubs run on a strict gender-based system. How much this sucks is enough content for a whole separate article, but right now we’re going to focus on how to play within the rules of the system. If your group is all girls, or more girls than guys, it will definitely be easier for you to get in for free.
Decide which clubs to attend

Different clubs will have different big name DJs performing that night, and this will often determine how busy the club gets. Some of my favorites are Omnia, Hakkasan, Encore, and XS.
Find the names and numbers of promoters

Promoters and hosts are key to getting on the free guest list for clubs, and they are often paid a commission for how many people they bring in. You can usually find their names and contact information by searching the club name on Google, Facebook, or Instagram. Club websites will sometimes have contact information as well.
Message the promoters a few days to a week in advance

Send a text with your name and size of the group, along with number of guys and girls. Be polite and friendly – remember, they’re doing you a favor! Please don’t mass spam promoters – it’s rude to two-time promoters and be under multiple promoter names at the same club. This can lead to your name being blacklisted in the Vegas network.
Understand what the guest list means

The guest list is a way to get into the club for free, but it’s not a VIP line. It’s only one tier above general admission, and the club can refuse you entry or charge cover depending on how busy the night is or when you show up. This is especially true for guys – sorry, sometimes the patriarchy works in the opposite direction!
Show up early and follow dress code

Follow your promoter’s instructions closely. Most clubs open around 10:30, and the guest list line will start growing quickly around 11:00-12:00. Especially if you have a large numbers of guys, try and show up ear to ensure that you get in with no cover. Don’t forget to follow the club’s dress code – I’ve seen guys removed from line for wearing sneakers or boots.

Bonus if you’re a group of all girls:

Many clubs, such as Intrigue and Hyde, will have free drinks for ladies before midnight. It doesn’t hurt to ask your promoter if the club will be doing any girls-only specials that night.
It’s possible to get a free table with drinks if you’re a group of all girls. Again, politely ask your promoter and emphasize your gender ratio. In this case, your promoter will come meet you in person and escort you to the front of the line.

I recently went to Vegas with a group of 20 – 12 guys, 8 girls. I was able to guest list the entire group for Hakkasan, Omnia, Encore, and XS. All of us were able to get in for free at Hakkasan and Encore, and guys paid reduced cover for Omnia because we arrived later in the night (around midnight).

Good luck in Vegas, and stay safe!

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A Guide to Planning a Magic Trip to Disneyland

Hali — Sat, 09 Mar 2019 22:33:16 +0000

When I think of Disney, I dream of childhood nostalgia wrapped in the form of princesses and castles and giant turkey legs. Ever since moving to California six years ago, Disneyland has been on my bucket list, but I’ve never quite made it there. But for the past few weeks, I’ve been working in driving distance of Disneyland and there were no more excuses to be made – I had to spend a weekend at the happiest place on Earth.

The weekend was truly magical. Every minute detail of Disneyland is orchestrated so you feel like you’re in a different world, and very little is overdone or tacky. The rides are a wonderful mix of nostalgic, old-style Disney cartoons and high-tech, immersive experiences. Even though I have grown into a cynical adult, Disneyland still managed to captivate my imagination and transport me to a place of magic.

But a lot of different variables can make your trip less magical – long lines, rain, and expensive ticket prices. I wanted to share some of my tips to help minimize the pain and help all your Disney dreams come true!

Disneyland vs. Disney California Adventure

First thing to note is that there are two parks that you can visit at the Anaheim, California location. One is the traditional Disneyland, which is set up much like Disney World. You can explore traditional rides in Fantasy Land, Adventure Land, Tomorrow Land, and Frontier Land, with a Star Wars section currently being built. Disney California adventure offers a different set of rides, though with less of the nostalgia and character events in Disneyland.

Tickets

One day tickets currently range from $104 during non-peak days to $150 during peak days. Many employers will have corporate discounts, so check and see if you can get perks through work. Additionally, if you have friends who work at Disney, they have discounted tickets and can potentially also bring you in to the park for free.

Until May 2019, Disneyland currently has a 3 day for $210 one park per day special.

Park Hopper

For an extra $50-55, your ticket can be converted to a Park Hopper ticket, which will let you go between Disneyland and Disney California Adventure during the same day. Otherwise, you will only be able to visit one park per day. We did not opt for the Park Hopper, as we only wanted to spend time in Disneyland.

MaxPass/PhotoPass

The MaxPass allows you to make FastPass reservations on your phone. What is the FastPass? It lets you make reservations for popular rides so you don’t have to wait in line! Additionally, there are a number of photo stations throughout the park where dedicated photographers will take pictures of your group. If you have the MaxPass, these photos will automatically be connected to your ticket and you can have unlimited downloads. I strongly recommend that you pay for the MaxPass, as it will smooth out your experience and maximize the amount of time you spend on rides at Disney.

Planning ahead

Weather

Though it’s sunny about 90% of the time in Southern California, rainy days do happen, especially in December, January, and February. Good news is, almost all of the rides are indoors, and there are covered waiting areas. Rainy days also reduce wait times!

Water

Water bottles cost about $5, so save yourself some money and be kind to the environment by bringing reusable bottles that can be filled at a number of water fountains throughout the park.

Minnie/Mickey headbands

My biggest regret was that I did not order a Minnie Mouse headband to wear around the park. Inside the park, these go for $30, so plan ahead an order one off Amazon for half the price.

Where to Stay

We stayed at the Sheraton Park Hotel at Anaheim Resorts, which is about a 15 minute walk outside of the park. I think it is worth it to stay either inside the park or within walking distance of the park. Otherwise you’ll spend a long time getting in to the parking garage and then waiting for a shuttle to the park.

Disneyland Attractions

Download the app to see where characters will be making an appearance, estimated wait times for rides, restaurant reservations, and fireworks, parades, and show times. Having all of this information accessible on your phone is a big game changer.

Must-sees and favorite rides

The fireworks show and parades were spectacular productions that were enthralling and brought me back to my childhood. Your favorite Disney songs are paired with beautiful lights, projections, and floats. It helps to come a little before show time to secure a spot.

These were my favorite rides at Disneyland:

Indiana Jones

It’s a Small World

Matterhorn Bobsleds

FAQ

How long are wait times?

We never waited longer than 20 minutes for a ride, but we also went during a less popular time (end of February) and used our MaxPass to great effect. You can make a MaxPass reservation about once every hour, so be sure to quickly reserve a spot to maximize ride efficiency!

How many days should I spend at Disneyland?

If you go from morning until night, you can definitely fit Disneyland into one day. I enjoyed splitting the park over multiple days – it helped me feel more relaxed and gave me time to sit and just enjoy the ambiance of the park. Also made me less anxious about waiting in line!

Is Disneyland worth the price?

I would say yes. Even though after tickets, food, and housing for two people, we spend a significant amount of money, I had an amazing and unique experience that simply could not be replicated at any other theme park. I probably won’t be going back any time soon though because of the cost.

Now that spring and summer are coming will you guys be planning a trip to Disneyland? Do you guys have any favorite Disney memories?

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A Guide to 48 Hours of Exploring in Austin

Hali — Fri, 25 Jan 2019 13:56:04 +0000

Austin is a city with a wealth of cute shops, off-beat and interesting street art, and nightlife. It’s also extremely easy to get around, with many places walkable or bikeable – made even easier by an omnipresence of electric scooters and bikes. You can see a variety of places in just a weekend without feeling rushed or pressured!

If you’re excited about food in Austin, check out my guide to 48 hours of food in Austin.

Sites

What I loved about my trip was that there was no “must-see” list. Instead, we could wander from neighborhood to neighborhood without any pressure.

Zilker Park

This large and lovely park was dog heaven. Wow. We sat there for a good hour just sitting in the grass and watching dogs bounce happily around us. What a perfect place to walk off a food truck meal and enjoy the sunny weather.

UT Austin

There’s something charming and nostalgic about University campuses, so we wandered through since it’s reasonably close to the state capitol building.

State Capitol Building

There are free tours, but if you don’t want to commit to a history lesson, you can still enjoy the beautiful architecture and memorials. Texas loves all that is big and grand, and the capitol building is no exception.

South Congress Avenue

This cute street has trendy shops, coffee spots, and even more food trucks. You can spend a relaxing afternoon wandering from spot to spot, nibbling on treats, and soaking in the quirky atmosphere. We also took the chance to grab some coffee and rejuvenate – having fun is hard work!

Original Whole Foods Market

I bet you didn’t know that the OG Whole Foods is located in Austin, Texas. Friends, this was the most fantastic Whole Foods experience of my life. If you love browsing trendy organize products and trying yummy samples, definitely stop by this location (and I say this without a hint of irony).

Murals

Austin is famous for colorful and fun murals – get ready for all those photo ops!

Greetings From Austin

1720 S 1st St, Austin, TX 78704

Close to South Congress Avenue and Gourdough’s Doughnuts

You’re My Butter Half

2000 E Martin Luther King Jr Blvd, Austin, TX 78702

I love you so much

1300 S Congress Ave, Austin, TX 78704

Right on South Congress Avenue. It’s cousin the ironic “I hate you so much” mural can be found on Rainey Street.

Austin Howdy

601 W 6th St, Austin, TX 78701

Close to the original Whole Foods

Nightlife

Two big going out districts in Austin provide an ample amount of bars, clubs, and live music.

6th Street

West 6th is the young professional’s area of choice while Dirty (East) 6th is where college crowds will come in full force. This street has a lot of bars, clubs, and character. We particularly enjoyed live music and The Library and drinks at the speakeasy at Firehouse Hostel.

Rainey Street

Attracting a slightly older crowd than 6th Street, Rainey Street reminded me of the Row at my undergrad where the fraternities were housed. A number of bars and food stops line this street, and there is a constant buzz of energy and excitement.

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A Guide to 48 Hours of Food in Austin

Hali — Wed, 23 Jan 2019 04:27:41 +0000

I thought I had to bid farewell to Texas when I flew out of Dallas at the end of December, but my friends and I had an impromptu reunion in Austin, Texas this past weekend. Two of us are on the west coast, two of us are on the east coast, and Austin was right in between with affordable flights and housing. Before I knew it, I was mural-hopping, food truck-exploring, and wandering around this quirky Texas city. With only a weekend in the city we had one main mission: eat as much delicious food as possible.

A few reasons why Austin is a fantastic city to travel to:

Affordable – I might be biased as an SF girl, but food and housing won’t break the bank
Easy to get around – Most places are walkable or bikeable. It’s even easier to get around with Uber, Lyft, Jump bikes, and electric scooters
Great weather – It was chilly when we visited in January but sunny and pleasant
Fun and young atmosphere – Cute shops, great food, friendly people, and popping nightlife

Austin Food Spots

One of our group was a vegetarian, so this is a vegetarian-friendly food list despite Texas being a bbq hot spot.

Blue Dahlia Bistro

Meal: Brunch

Highlights: Ricotta, fig, and honey open face sandwich

For a hot second I thought I was back in San Francisco – cute and trendy decor combined with healthy options like fresh granola and egg whites. We ordered a variety of their open face sandwiches to share for a healthy and energizing start to our day. There can be a bit of a wait, but the surrounding neighborhood had small shops and sites to distract us.

The Picnic Food Truck Park

Meal: Lunch

Highlights: Perfect fluffy, sugary beignets

Located conveniently right next to Zilker park, The Picnic is a gathering spot for a variety of food trucks. Go with a group so you can sample a bit from each truck – we enjoyed BBQ sandwiches, beignets, Po’ boys, Pad Thai, and Acai bowls. Yes, we were a bit stuffed after but you can just go walk it off in the park after.

Torchy’s Tacos

Meal: Dinner

Highlights: Brushfire Taco

Torchy’s has a number of locations throughout Austin, and we were told we 100% had to go there by 3 different people. The tacos are creative and tasty; the queso and chips are excellent and extremely satisfying.

Gabriela’s Downtown

Meal: Dinner

Highlights: Salsa sampler platter

I was looking for a place where I could eat such excellent chips and salsa that when my main course came I would already be full. Gabriela’s fulfilled that dream with its perfect homemade chips and salsa sampler. The tortillas are also a corn and flour mix that gives you the best of both worlds.

Voodoo Doughnut

Meal: Dessert

Highlights: Cool ambiance

Located in the middle of Dirty 6th, Voodoo Doughnut gets a lot of hype. The doughnuts are great – affordable, fluffily yeasty or densely cakey, with a variety of flavors. Fun wall art creates a fun and hip atmosphere. But read on for the best doughnuts in Austin…

Gourdough’s Big. Fat. Donuts.

Meal: Dessert

Highlights: The Dirty Berry

Be still, my donut-loving heart. Located in a food truck by South Congress Avenue, Gourdough’s really sells Big. Fat. Donuts. Each donut is bigger than your face and is made fresh to order. There is a whole slew of sweet and even savory toppings, from grilled fruit to simple cinnamon sugar to bacon and maple.

Halcyon

Meal: Dessert/Drinks

Highlights: S’mores platter

This bar/coffee shop has a romantic and intimate environment (we spent a good amount of our time there watching a couple on their first date). You can roast S’mores over your very own personal fire and can order hot chocolate, smoothies, or something a bit more spiked.

Mañana

Meal: Coffee

Highlights: Relaxing ambiance

This coffee shop on Congress Avenue had a great environment with plenty of space to sit and chat. Note that the drinks can be a bit pricey – I paid $5 for a cold brew.

Of course, there is a plethora of delicious food in Austin – here’s some places that were on our list but we didn’t make it to: Franklin’s Barbecue, Moonshine Patio Bar & Grill, Home Slice Pizza, Odd Duck.

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San Francisco Bakery Crawl

Hali — Tue, 15 Jan 2019 03:48:33 +0000

I love making my own baked goods, but I also love sampling baked goods that I wouldn’t be able to make at home. This past Saturday I organized a “Bun in the Oven” baby shower bakery crawl for my older sister to taste the best treats that San Francisco has to offer. While marveling at the fact that I’ll soon be an aunt (hello adulthood), I also managed to eat a remarkable amount of pastries. Flaky croissants, giant donuts, and perfect cannoli – this bakery crawl itinerary has it all. This crawl is designed to take 2-3 hours with ~50 minutes of walking and goes over a relatively flat area with some beautiful views of the Bay.

Stop 1: milkbean

881 Post St
San Francisco, CA 94109

What they’re known for: creative lattes and breakfast sandwiches

Milkbean has an array of creative latte flavors, from lavender to creme brulee. They also sell an array of sandwiches to kick off your crawl with a savory start. And if you want to indulge your sweet tooth right away, they offer a variety of pastries including a Fruity Pebbles cookie.

– 3 min walk –

Stop 2: Mr. Holmes Bakehouse

1042 Larkin St
San Francisco, CA 94109

What they’re known for: Cruffins and sushi croissants

Mr. Holmes Bakehouse is an iconic SF establishment. New York city has cronuts – San Francisco has cruffins, the love child between a croissant and a muffin. Flavors rotate and range from toffee crunch to matcha to blackberry. The neon pink “I got baked in San Francisco” sign is the site of many an Instagram pic, and its pastries are as delicious as they look.

– 9 min walk –

Stop 3: Bob’s Donuts and Pastries

1621 Polk St
San Francisco, CA 94109

What they’re known for: Giant donuts

Bob’s is a classic donut shop selling all your favorite yeast and crumb donuts. Their claim to fame is a giant donut that is 100% larger than your face. If you eat it in under 3 minutes, you win a free donut, a place on their hall of fame, and one heck of a sugar high. Bonus – they also sell vegan donuts.

– 24 min walk or 10 min Uber –

Stop 4: Stella Pastry & Cafe

446 Columbus Ave
San Francisco, CA 94133

What they’re known for: Cannoli and Sacripantina

Venture over to North Beach and you’ll find yourself right in the heart of Little Italy. Stella serves some delicious Italian treats, and you must try the cannoli and sacripantina, a vanilla sponge cake. If you’re feeling thirsty from all the walking, treat yourself to a refreshing Italian soda.

– 5 min walk –

Stop 5: Golden Gate Bakery

1029 Grant Ave
San Francisco, CA 94133

What they’re known for: Egg tarts

Right where Little Italy melds into Chinatown you can find Golden Gate Bakery, known for its traditional Chinese egg tarts. Pie shell crust meets a creamy custard center for the perfect treat to top off your bakery crawl.

* sadly there are no pictures for Golden Gate Bakery as they were closed on the day we visited

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north america Archives | Halicopter Away

Guide to Backpacking Denali National Park

What our trip to Denali looked like

Our route in Denali

What I wished we did differently

What I would do again

How much experience do you need to backpack Denali National Park?

How to get a Denali backpacking permit

Select your Denali backpacking units

Buy your Denali camper bus tickets

How to prepare for your backpacking trip to Denali

Understand the Denali terrain & weather

Prepare your gear

Clothes

Shoes

Camping & Cooking

First Aid

Water

Bear Safety

Mosquito prevention

Miscellaneous

Prepare your food

Do you need a bear canister?

What’s the best way to deal with mosquitos in Denali?

Do you need a satellite communicator?

How to get to Denali

Fun stops on the way to Denali

Backpacking 10 Lakes Trail in Yosemite National Park

10 Lakes Trail, Yosemite National Park

Difficulty

Terrain

Camping

What we brought

What we ate

Some of my favorite moments from 10 Lakes Trail, Yosemite

6 trendy desserts to eat in NYC

6 trendy desserts to eat in NYC

New York cheesecake

Cookies from Levain Bakery

Cookie shots from Dominique Ansel

Birthday cake from Milk Bar

Bubble tea soft serve from Bar Pa Tea

Olive oil cake from L’Artusi

A Guide to 72 Hours of Food in Portland, OR

Portland Food Spots

A Guide to a Day in San Francisco’s Sunset District

How to get there:

Morning

Afternoon

Evening

How to Not Pay Cover in Vegas

How to get into Vegas Clubs for free

How many guys are girls do you have in your group?

Decide which clubs to attend

Find the names and numbers of promoters

Message the promoters a few days to a week in advance

Understand what the guest list means

Show up early and follow dress code

Bonus if you’re a group of all girls:

A Guide to Planning a Magic Trip to Disneyland

Disneyland vs. Disney California Adventure

Tickets

Park Hopper

MaxPass/PhotoPass

Planning ahead

Weather

Water

Minnie/Mickey headbands

Where to Stay

Disneyland Attractions

Must-sees and favorite rides

FAQ

A Guide to 48 Hours of Exploring in Austin

Sites

Zilker Park

UT Austin

State Capitol Building

South Congress Avenue

Original Whole Foods Market

Murals